Installing a new sewage pump is a complex but manageable DIY project for someone with intermediate plumbing and electrical skills. Properly setting up a sewage pump is essential for homes with basement bathrooms or laundry rooms, as it moves wastewater from below the main sewer line up to where gravity can take over. This guide provides a detailed, step-by-step process to help you safely and effectively install your new pump.

By following these instructions, you can ensure your system functions reliably, preventing messy and expensive backups. We'll walk you through everything from gathering the right tools and preparing the site to making the final connections and testing your new setup. While this project requires careful work, doing it yourself can save you a significant amount on professional installation costs.

What is a Sewage Pump?

A sewage pump, also known as a sewage ejector pump, is a specific type of pump designed to handle raw sewage and solid waste up to two inches in diameter. It’s installed in a sealed basin, or pit, dug into the lowest point of your basement floor.

When wastewater from your basement fixtures flows into the basin, it raises a float switch. Once the water reaches a certain level, the switch activates the pump. The pump then grinds the waste and forcefully expels the slurry through a discharge pipe, moving it upward to connect with your home's main sewer or septic line. A check valve in the discharge pipe is crucial, as it prevents the pumped sewage from flowing back into the basin.

Tools and Materials Needed

Before you begin, gather all the necessary tools and materials. Having everything ready will make the installation process much smoother.

Tools:

· Jackhammer or concrete saw

· Shovel and bucket

· Level

· Tape measure

· PVC pipe cutter

· Adjustable wrenches or pipe wrenches

· Screwdrivers

· Drill with appropriate bits

· Caulking gun

· Safety glasses, gloves, and dust mask

Materials:

· Sewage pump

· Sewage basin (sump pit) with a sealed lid

· Check valve (sized for your discharge pipe)

· PVC pipe and fittings (for discharge and vent lines, typically 2-inch)

· PVC primer and cement

· Gate valve or ball valve (optional but recommended)

· Thread seal tape

· Silicone caulk

· Gravel

· Concrete mix

How to Install a Sewage Pump Step-by-Step

Follow these nine steps for a successful installation. Always prioritize safety, and if you feel uncertain at any stage, it’s best to consult a professional plumber.

1. Choose the Right Location

Select a spot at the lowest point of your basement. This allows gravity to direct all wastewater from your basement fixtures into the sewage basin. Ensure the location has enough space for the basin and is within reach of a dedicated GFI-protected electrical outlet. It should also have a clear path for running the discharge and vent pipes.

2. Excavate the Pit

Put on your safety gear. Mark the outline of the sewage basin on the concrete floor. Using a jackhammer or concrete saw, carefully break up the concrete within the marked area. Dig out the dirt and rock to a depth that allows the top of the basin to sit flush with the basement floor. It’s a good idea to dig a few extra inches deeper to add a gravel base, which helps with drainage and stability.

3. Install the Sewage Basin

Pour a 2- to 3-inch layer of gravel into the bottom of the pit and level it. This base will support the basin and prevent it from shifting. Carefully lower the sewage basin into the pit, making sure it is level. Once it’s perfectly positioned, backfill the area around the basin with more gravel, stopping about 4-5 inches from the floor surface.

4. Place the Pump in the Basin

Before placing the pump, clean the inside of the basin to remove any debris from the excavation. Lower the sewage pump into the center of the basin. Ensure it sits flat and stable on the bottom. Position the pump so its discharge outlet faces the direction where you plan to run the discharge pipe.

5. Connect the Discharge Pipe and Check Valve

The discharge pipe carries the wastewater from the pump to the main sewer line.

· Attach the initial pipe: Cut a short piece of PVC pipe and connect it to the pump’s discharge outlet.

· Install the check valve: The check valve is a critical component that prevents backflow. Install it on the vertical section of the discharge pipe, at least a few inches above the pump. Ensure the arrow on the valve is pointing away from the pump, in the direction of the water flow. Use PVC primer and cement for a secure, watertight seal.

· Add a ball valve (optional): Installing a ball valve or gate valve above the check valve is highly recommended. This allows you to shut off the line for future pump maintenance without dealing with backflow from the main sewer line.

· Run the pipe: Continue running the PVC discharge pipe from the check valve up and over to your main sewer line. Connect it using a wye-fitting.

6. Install the Vent Pipe

A vent pipe is required by plumbing codes to equalize pressure in the basin and allow sewer gases to escape safely through your home's existing vent stack.

· From the basin lid, run a separate PVC vent pipe (typically 2-inch) upward.

· Connect this pipe to your home's main vent stack. Do not connect it to the discharge pipe.

· The vent pipe must run independently to the vent stack to function correctly and prevent dangerous sewer gas from entering your home.

7. Seal the Basin and Pour New Concrete

With all pipes connected, place the sealed lid onto the sewage basin. Make sure the gaskets create a tight seal to contain water and odors. Guide the pump’s power cord and the float switch cord through the designated holes in the lid.

Mix your concrete according to the package directions and pour it into the gap around the basin. Use a trowel to smooth the surface so it is flush with the rest of your basement floor. Let the concrete cure completely, which typically takes at least 24-48 hours.

8. Make the Electrical Connections

The sewage pump must be connected to a dedicated ground-fault circuit interrupter (GFCI) outlet. This is a crucial safety measure to prevent electrical shock in a wet environment.

· Plug the pump’s power cord into the back of the float switch plug (this is called a "piggyback" plug).

· Plug the float switch plug into the GFCI outlet.

· This setup ensures the pump only receives power when the float switch is activated by rising water. Do not use an extension cord.

9. Test the System

Before you start using your new basement fixtures, you need to test the pump.

· Fill the basin with a few buckets of clean water.

· Watch as the water level rises and lifts the float switch.

· When the switch reaches its activation point, the pump should turn on, and you should hear it pump the water out through the discharge pipe.

· Listen for the check valve to "thump" shut as the pump turns off. This confirms it’s working correctly.

· Check all pipe connections for leaks during the test. If you find any, tighten the fittings or reapply sealant as needed.

When to Call a Professional

Installing a sewage pump is a demanding job. If you encounter any of the following, it’s best to contact a licensed plumber:

· You are unfamiliar with local plumbing and electrical codes.

· You are uncomfortable working with electricity or breaking concrete.

· You need to tie into a cast-iron main sewer line, which requires specialized tools.

· The system doesn’t work correctly after installation.

A professional can ensure the job is done safely and correctly, giving you peace of mind and protecting your home from potential water damage.

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